Monday, July 5, 2010

Grassy Knoll, and Truth In Advertising

First, I have to give them credit for truth in advertising.  There can't be much doubt what you expect to get when (if) you purchase this one.

For those who must know, this wine is from the folks at Bergevin Lane winery in Walla Walla, and it is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 7% Cabernet Franc.

It's priced at less than $10 ($9.99, but, hey, that's officially less than $10), and even more so since Oregon doesn't charge sales tax!  And it's topped with a screwcap, too; a bright red screwcap, which is apropos.

What does the Fruit Bomb taste like?

I don't know.  I'm not their target market, and I didn't want to spend $10 to find out.  But I suspect I know, within certain parameters, and that's good enough for me.

And lest any of you think I'm being wine snobby, not so.  I applaud efforts like this:  it appeals to a certain type of drinker, it's very clearly stated in stylistic terms, the price is right, and I have little doubt it will probably deliver up to expectations.

It's just not what I want from a wine these days.  But that's fine.  Those that do want this will get it, and it's blatant enough that I can avoid it.  Thus, everyone is happy.

Now this, he said, looking to the right, is very much my style of wine.  And I did drink it, thank you very much.  And it was good (he said).

As a matter of fact, it was exceptionally good.  You, dear reader, can't see the top of the bottle, but it says Smaragd and if you were to taste it, a Smaragd it would be, all creamy, and silky-soft and richly textured in the mouth.  (The closest I can come with Smaragd is sort of like a German Spatlese Trocken---a bone dry late harvest, where the intent is not to sweeten the wine, but to 'fatten up' the texture with a touch of extra textural richness.  But better than have me attempt to describe it, you should just go out and taste it for yourself.)

It wasn't really all that grassy---sorry, but I couldn't resist it for the title, atrocious puns being one of my many moral failings---but it was Gruner Veltliner to the max, and intensely, intensely green to its core.

This magnificent wine also bears on the outside one of my favorite labels, an instance where the outside visual is as sumptuous as the inside taste. This is, of course, Weingut Knoll Ried Kreutles Loibner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2007.

Knoll is in a class by itself.  It's one of the consistently great producers of Austrian whites.  If you have some, rejoice.  If you don't, find some.  If you can't find some, mourn.  And then befriend someone who has some.

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