Thursday, April 22, 2010

My, my, my...what a lovely little wine this is.

Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2006 is the kind of wine that, if you haven't had it, you should have. Quickly.

This northern Italian variety, related to Syrah, is a remarkable food wine. In the hands of Elisabetta Foradori, it's a spectacularly good wine.

Plump, but not fat; fruity, but never gobby; rich, but not over the top; perfectly, precisely balanced with nice long acids and lovely soft tannins and not overly evident wood, this is a succulent wine in every way.

Gorgeous aromatics and supple, velvety black fruit, with a little chubby blueberry showing at the bottom, this was a textbook example of a wine that could easily handle whatever food was matched with it.

We were in the new and uber-trendy Gruner restaurant in downtown Portland, noshing on some 'pan-Germanic' fare, and each of us had ordered differently. One had the classic Kavalierspitz of Austria, sort of a pot roast in a fragrant broth kind of thing; another had spaetzle with mushrooms (yum!); another had roasted quail with rabbit boudin; and I had mixed house-made wurst with choucroute-style sauerkraut, boiled potatoes, and sweet-spicy mustard.

The Foradori handled it all without a problem. It accommodated itself to the different foods and spices, and kept its style throughout, simply enhancing anything that came its way.

Even after the meal was over and we sat and dawdled and talked, the Foradori was a great after-dinner tipple too, just smoothing out the evening.

Lovely, lovely wine.

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